Healthy Aging Part 2 - Prescription Retinoids
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- Retinols: Are the weakest form and if you ask us they're a marketing invention by beauty brands who can't sell their products over the counter. We typically avoid them except in a few cases like in eye serums or body lotions.
- Adapalene: commonly known by the brand name Differin, this newer generation retinoid binds to the necessary skin receptors while causing less irritation than...
- ...Tretinoin: recognized as the gold standard for both anti-aging and acne treatment. Although it can cause some irritation for sensitive skin initially, it boasts the best long-term clinical track record.
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When you first start, as your skin goes through a renewal phase called "purging." During the first few weeks many people see a lot of flaking, increased dryness, and even an increase in acne. In higher strength prescription it's not uncommon to essentially see your entire face get very flaky. It can feel a bit unsettling but it's a sign it's working as intended until your skin gets used to the ingredients.
Generally people put on the retinoid in the treatment part of the 4 step routine, but if you have sensitive skin it can be less irritating to put it on after your moisturiser at night (and research suggest this has no implication on your results)
A good strategy to mitigate the irritation is to start slow, just a few nights a week and gradually build up. You can (and should) also mitigate this with some solid aftercare... scroll down to the next section for an in depth explanation.
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A solid routine is your best aftercare, but when starting retinoids, it helps to dial up hydration and scale back anything harsh. Here’s how to think about it.
As retinoids speed up cell turnover, the new “baby” skin that emerges is extra sensitive. We’ve already hammered on about daily sunscreen use, but it’s even more crucial when on retinoids. Your skin will burn more easily (and sun damage ages it fast), so be diligent about reapplication.
When flaking hits during the purge, resist the urge to exfoliate, even with a gentle product like ASH. Let your skin ride it out; retinoids are essentially already doing the exfoliating for you.
Instead, focus on nourishing and hydrating with a rich moisturizer like SUEDE L'ECLAT or even the overnight mask BEACH GRASS. And for a quick emergency fix, throw on a LE FIX for a little emergency hydration as well.
**This content is for informational purposes only and should not be taken as medical advice. Always consult a licensed healthcare professional before starting or changing any prescription treatment.**
